By J.D. Brown and Margaret Backenheimer, Special to Tribune Newspapers
January 1, 2014
Two wintry cities at either end of the Baltic Sea — Umea, Sweden, to the northwest, and Riga, Latvia, to the southeast — share yearlong tenures as the official European Capitals of Culture in 2014, a tradition dating to 1985.
Umea, subarctic and the most northerly Cultural Capital ever selected, is hoping to make itself more visible to Europe and the world, and it has lined up cultural events for almost every day on the calendar. Umea is the ultimate college town: Of 75,000 residents, 39,000 are students.
By contrast, Riga, Latvia's capital, is the Baltic's largest city (population 700,000). Also unlike Umea, its average July high temperatures reach the 70s. At its heart is its medieval Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site surrounded by the largest collection of German art nouveau buildings in the world, erected from 1875 to 1914.
With their combined cultural riches under full sail this year, Riga and Umea should make the Baltic the most festive waterway in Europe.
As Riga kicks off its 2014 cultural program Jan. 15-19, three events take center stage. First, the Museum of Natural History opens Jan. 17 for a major exhibition, "Amber Through the Ages." For centuries the amber trade was central to the cultural identity and mystique of the Baltic states, and Riga's master amber carvers are still in abundance at the Central Market, a shopping complex fashioned from old zeppelin hangars.
The next day, Jan. 18, brings the launch of the "Chain of Book Lovers," as citizens and visitors line the streets and relay the collection of the National Library of Latvia to the new library, the Castle of Light.
On Jan. 19, the Latvian National Opera opens its season with a multimedia production of "Rienzi" by Richard Wagner, a German composer who once lived in Riga.
Until October, Esplanade Park, in the center of Riga, will be the main showcase for outdoor performances and interactive events. Street events will unfold along Brivibas (Freedom) Street, near Old Town, and along the banks of the Daugava River, which ties Riga to the Baltic Sea.
Among the notable dates on Riga's culture calendar:
March 1-9: Winter Festival — Riga's pivotal celebration of ice and snow brings together skiers and snowboarders competing in 10 events, vintage automobiles showing off on ice, and competitors displaying their slipperiest moves on shovels and frying pans.
March 31: "329th Jubilee of Bach" — Riga's brass orchestra fills the Great Guild Hall with dance suites and instrumentals from the Baroque composer.
April 11: "The St. Matthew Passion" — Bach again, with the Latvian Radio Choir performing the sacred oratorio in the Church of St. Peter.
May 18: Freedom Run — Marathon runners and others fleet of foot flood Brivibas Street.
June 21: Summer Solstice — The forest village of Sigulda, an hour by train from Riga, hosts a gathering of Latvian folk musicians, dancers, cheese-makers and fire-throwers honoring the mystery of Midsummer Night.
July 9-19: 8th World Choir Games — 20,000 singers compete in the concert halls of Riga.
Aug. 1-3: Sigulda International Opera Festival — An original staging of Bizet's "Carmen" takes place in Sigulda Castle's open-air concert hall.
Oct. 16: "Fairy-tale" — Contemporary nods to the works of Hans Christian Andersen and the Brothers Grimm precede the premiere of American composer David Lang's "Girl With Matches" in the Church of St. Peter.
Nov. 14-18: "Shine, Riga!" — A festival of light illuminates 100 finer points of the city, including facades, bridges, monuments and parks.
Dec. 13: European Film Academy Awards 2014 — Riga hosts 1,500 cinematic pros and performers in search of statues.
Northern Sweden's most vibrant Baltic port promises to turn 2014 into a nonstop party, beginning with opening weekend Jan. 31-Feb. 2. A folk festival called Burning Snow will blaze across the banks of the Ume River, the cityscape will be illuminated by laser beams, and Town Hall Square will be transformed into a place of Sami culture, complete with reindeer. The migratory Sami people are natives of Europe's frozen north, and they have long made their mark on Umea. During Umea's cultural year, Sami folk traditions will share the stage with the city's outdoor pursuits and its considerable musical resources.
Among the top events are the following:
Feb. 12: Burbot fishing — This is a chance to ice fish in the dark in a nature reserve. Bring warm clothing, food and a headlamp. (Ice fishing will be canceled should temperatures dip below minus 4 degrees Fahrenheit.)
Feb. 26-March 12: Sami Week — Known for their reindeer and yurts (portable teepees), the Sami people come to town to perform their dances and music, demonstrate their sports and display their handicrafts.
Feb. 28-March 1: House of Metal — 25 bands on four stages turn the Umea Folkets Hus upside down.
June 25-28: Swedish Beach Tour — Sand fills Town Hall Square as Europe's top beach volleyball players dig in. With luck, temperatures will be in the 60s.
July 19: Opera in the Sheep House — Opera and food dominate as Victoria Power, Andreas Ericsson and the opera trio Divine play the Halje Farm.
Aug. 1-2: Rock Out Wild — Hard metal shines on the shores of the Vindel River.
Aug. 14, 16, 19, 21, 23: "Electra" — Norrland's Opera presents an all-out outdoors performance of the Richard Strauss opera at the old military barracks in Umestan.
Aug. 29-Sept. 7: Ten Days of Contemporary Circus — Street artists give cutting-edge nouveau cirque performances under the big top at Town Square.
Sept. 20: Historic Market — Plays, goods and costumes from the late 19th century grace the Vasterbotten Museum.
Sept. 26-28: Umea Pride — Parades, performances and forums address LGBTQ themes.
Nov. 24-30: "Umea Autumn Lights" — Downtown gets a laser treatment.
Dec. 6-7: Christmas Market — This Swedish tradition, held at the Vasterbotten Museum, thaws out shoppers with heated drinks and logs ablaze.
For more information: For Riga, Latvia, go to riga2014.org/eng or riga.lv.
For Umea, Sweden, go to umea2014.se/en or umea.se.
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