Seattle, beyond the usual tourist haunts

Next up, four stops on Capitol Hill, a community known for its large gay population and rollicking night life. Then three stops in the University District, and one downtown.

Oddfellows Café & Bar took over an old Oddfellows Lodge in 2008, 100 years after the building went up. The restaurant is open from 8 a.m. until "late," which in this bar-rich neighborhood means something. About 90% of the interior, furniture and fixtures are said to have been salvaged, recycled or repurposed. The ceilings are high, some of the walls are brick and dinner main dishes go for $12 to $18. 1525 10th Ave.; (206) 325-0807,

Elliott Bay Book Co., a local institution with big inventory and frequent readings, endured on Main Street at Pioneer Square for more than 35 years. Then in 2010, the bookshop moved to new Capitol Hill headquarters with wood floors and exposed rafters. 1521 10th Ave.; (206) 624-6600,

Cal Anderson Park is an urban reinvention story: The park was expanded and transformed in 2005 by covering an old reservoir. On the evening we showed up, the tennis court was packed with grown-up hipsters (and one brave kid) playing dodge ball. Other days they do bike polo, hula-hooping and "cardboard tube fights." 1635 11th Ave.; (206) 684-4075,

Molly Moon's Homemade Ice Cream is a chain with five locations and a seasonally evolving menu that recently included vegan coconut chunk, honey lavender and Earl Grey. The Capitol Hill Molly Moon's stands across the street from Cal Anderson Park, around the corner from the Oddfellows Café and Elliott Bay Book Co. 917 E. Pine St.; (206) 708-7947,

Breakfast, lunch or dinner would be enough to lure me to the University District's Agua Verde Café & Paddle Club, especially considering the prices and the Mexican regional dishes. (Most dinner main dishes about $8 to $14.) But this little café sits at the edge of quirky, scenic Portage Bay, which connects Lake Union and Lake Washington. The other half of the enterprise is a paddle club that rents single and double kayaks and stand-up paddleboards for $15 to $20 an hour. 1303 N.E. Boat St.; (206) 545-8570,

The Hotel Deca is a striking 16-story slice of Streamline Moderne, built in 1931 near the University of Washington campus in the heart of the often-scruffy University District. Rooms for two from $159. 4507 Brooklyn Ave. N.E.; (206) 634-2000,

The street parking and 27-step climb to the front door will scare away some people, but once you've ascended, the Chambered Nautilus Bed & Breakfast Inn is a pleasant hillside property in the University District. The main house is a handsome blue-and-white Georgian Colonial, almost 100 years old, and the four suites are basically one- and two-bedroom apartments, with full kitchens, in a newer neighboring building. Ten units in all. Rates from $149 in summer. 5005 22nd Ave. N.E.; (206) 522-2536,

OK, admit it, you're going to Pike Place Market, even though you've already been a time or two. Don't feel guilty for being an obvious tourist. But do leave time for another stop about a mile west. Olympic Sculpture Park rises at the edge of Elliott Bay. It's a cunning use of 9 formerly industrial acres, with works by about a dozen artists, including a big, orange "Eagle" by Alexander Calder; a stainless steel tree ("Split" by Roxy Paine); and a series of rippling, rusty steel slabs from Richard Serra called "Wake." Its café, Taste, is open 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekends in summer. 2901 Western Ave.; (206) 654-3100,